But it is south I go to Constanta , not only one of the largest ports in Europe but with the nine miles sand bar of Mamaia , a chic holiday destination for adventurous Europeans. Here the Black Sea gave way to sulfur-rich lakes, full of life-enhancing salts and minerals. My mission was to wallow in mud and with some persistent searching, there was no signage , I found the Bai Reci. Under a road and rail bridge, a steady stream of locals clad in only swimwear went and so I followed.

If this is a priority, Romania is probably not the best option. The closest would probably be in Albena, Bulgaria , 82 km from Vama Veche. It's a good blend of organized and discreet. However, the town of Costinesti itself is really not to my taste. It's thought of as a "party place" but seriously, the pretty "uncivilised" sort of party.

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